Champagne Thienot

The more Champagne one drinks the more one really recognises the range of styles available. Unfortunately Champagne suffers through its association with celebration. Whilst the producers themselves may be thankful of the price premium it is possible to enjoy as a result of this, it does mean that the majority of glasses downed act as a vehicle for emotion rather than being the cause of it. If only we would pay more attention. I say this having drunk more Champagne in the last two months than I have ever managed before in such a similar time frame. Such sacrifice has engendered in me a much greater appreciation of the Champenois and their offerings as well as a surprising shift in my bubble brightened preferences.

I remember the first time I had Krug Grand Cuvee and Bollinger’s RD, two wines whose depth and richness sparked in me the realisation of what Champagne was capable. This was back in early 2004 and although my financial limitations prevented me from drinking either of these wines with any frequency they became the benchmarks against which other Champagnes came to be judged. These two wines have many things in common, they are both wallet witheringly expensive, they both spend some time in oak, they both have a backbone of Pinot Noir rather than Chardonnay and they are both very ‘winey’ Champagnes (rather than the lighter, aperitif style) and therefore demand your attention and a certain coherence. Yet as time has passed I have found my tongue turning to Champagnes that are less obviously rich and powerful. If current consumption is to believed, I have been enjoying the work of Veuve Fourny et Fils, Bruno Paillard, Taittinger and the half way houses that operate between these two extremes of delicacy and density, namely Larmandier Bernier, Pol Roger and Dom Perignon.

As of last week I have been able to add another Champagne to this list having been introduced to Champagne Thienot. This relatively new house was started in 1985 by Champagne broker Alain Thienot and last week his son, Stanislas, was in Taipei hosting a tasting that revealed wines with the fresh and exuberant style that are currently en vogue in my household. What was crystal clear was the lack of any oxidative characteristics. These were whistle clean without being boring, polished but not prim and extremely enjoyable. Below are a few notes about my favourites. 

Thienot Brut NV
45% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 20% Meunier, 9g/RS, 4yrs on lees. 45% Reserve wine. Fruit from 65 different villages.
Elegant and gently yeasty nose with a touch of hazelnut, with crisp but ripe apple fruit and a persistent fine mousse that makes this a real palate enlivener. Chalky, sherbert-like mouth-feel drags its way across the palate leaving a minerally reminder of its presence once swallowed. The dosage is perfect balancing the brisk acidity whilst adding nothing that might get in the way of the style.
17/20

Thienot Brut Rose
45% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, 20% Meunier. 10g/RS, 7% Red wine, 2-3 yrs on lees, 45% reserve wines.
Salmon pink, and with aromas of redcurrant, and some fresh cherry pie. Delicious but perhaps not quite as persistent or fine as the Brut NV?
16/20

Thienot Brut 2006
57% Chardonnay, 28% Pinot Noir, 15% Meunier, 8.5g/RS. 6 yrs on lees
Expressive nose, with the heady and alluring aroma of a bakery at work. Powerful, firm of structure and with Chardonnay’s mineral grip, lots of stewed/preserved fruits whilst still very elegant. Delicious.
17/20

Cuvee Stanislas 2005
Blanc de Blancs (100% Cote des Blancs), 9g/RS, 6 years on lees.
Showing some maturity with a touch of fennel, jasmine tea, very floral, stewed apple fruit, pear and grapefruit. Lovely tension without being testing or remotely hard work. Fine, persistent and worthy.
17.5+/20

Cuvee Garance 2007
Blanc de Noirs , 100% Pinot Noir (100% Montagne de Reims), 10g/RS, 7 yrs on lees
More yellow fruit here plus a little wet wool and orange peel accompanied by some toastiness and has again a pink grapefruit finish that leaves a persistent impression.
17.5/20 

Cuvee Alain Thienot 2002
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, 9g/RS, 10yrs on lees
Lovely mature nose of savouriness with mushroom, dried fruit and dried flowers (almost pot pourri like) but with that touch of ripe grapefruit that haunts these wines. Persistent, rich and mouthcoating with weight but also elegance and finesse. Very fine.
18/20

席諾香檳品飲會

喝的香檳愈多,愈能發現香檳風格之廣,只可惜,香檳總是被拿來與歡慶的場合做聯想,因此,當香檳業者們一方面因酒款的超高價位而感到欣慰之時,一方面又得面對一個無奈的現實:即絕大多數消費者在享受香檳時,其實多半出自於香檳被賦予的感性意涵,而非酒款本身。如果我們能多注意酒質本身的表現就好了。我會這麼說,是因為這兩個月以來,我品嚐香檳的頻繁程度,前所未即。而這也讓我對於香檳人和他們所端出的酒款,激出更多欣賞之情,並驚訝地發現香檳整體風格的美好改變。

我記得自己第一次喝到深度與豐裕度均佳的庫克陳年香檳(Krug Grand Cuvee)與伯蘭爵RD年份香檳(Bollinger RD)時,徹底發現了香檳驚人的實力;那已經是2004年的事了。即便我的荷包沒深到可以時常品嚐它們,這兩款酒依舊成為我日後品評香檳時的最高標準。事實上,這兩款香檳有許多相似之處:首先是它們的價格都貴到令人掉淚;再者是它們均於橡木桶中陳年,並都以黑皮諾(Pinot Noir)為組成架構,而非夏多內(Chardonnay);最後,這兩款酒其實都非常近似於一般非香檳的葡萄酒,風格不走輕巧或開胃酒路線,但也因為如此,它們總是能抓住飲者的注意力。然而,隨著時間的推移,我發現自己愈來愈偏好較不濃郁或展現勁道的香檳。如果要以我現在的品飲做為喜好標準,Veuve Fourny et Fils、布魯諾・百漾(Bruno Paillard)、泰廷爵(Taittinger)等其實是我目前更偏愛的類型,還有介於細緻和濃郁兩個極端的中間類型香檳,如浪夢迪-貝荷尼香檳(Larmandier-Bernier)、保羅傑(Pol Roger)與香檳王(Dom Perignon)等酒廠。

上週,當我第一次品嚐到席諾香檳(Champagne Thienot)時,我發現自己又能為偏愛的香檳品牌多添了一家。這家歷史較短的酒廠,是由香檳酒商Alain Thienot於1985年成立。上週,莊主的兒子Stanislas來臺舉辦品酒會,並展示了一系列風味新鮮、豐富的香檳,正是我目前所愛的風格。這些酒款都沒有展現出任何氧化風格,嚐來雖乾淨,卻一點也不無趣,精雕細琢但不呆板,而且非常可口。以下簡介幾款我最愛的香檳。(編譯 / 艾蜜・emily) 

席諾干型無年份香檳
品種資訊:45%夏多內、35%黑皮諾、20%皮諾莫尼耶(Pinot Meunier)
其它資訊:殘糖量每公升9克;瓶中二次發酵四年;45%為陳年酒(Reserve wine);葡萄來自65個不同的村莊
品飲筆記:高雅、細緻的酵母氣息,綴以些許臻果香。口感爽脆,展現成熟蘋果味與細緻綿密的泡泡質地,嚐來相當鮮活。口中如同白堊土或雪泥冰砂般的質地,在口中緩慢延伸,留下礦物味餘韻。這款酒的補液(Dosage)恰如其分,既不至於更改酒款風格,又保留了活潑的酸度。17/20分)

席諾干型無年份粉紅香檳
品種資訊:45%黑皮諾、35%夏多內、20%皮諾莫尼耶
其它資訊:殘糖量每公升10克;使用7%紅酒;瓶中二次發酵2~3年;45%為陳年酒
品飲筆記:酒色呈鮭魚粉,香氣帶有紅醋栗與一些新鮮櫻桃派。這款酒雖然可口,但以無年份干型香檳而言,餘韻長度與細緻度似乎略嫌不足?16/20分)

席諾干型年份香檳2006
品種資訊:57%夏多內、28%黑皮諾、15%皮諾莫尼耶
其它資訊:殘糖量每公升8.5克;瓶中二次發酵6年
品飲筆記:香氣表現豐富,滿是令人陶醉且引人入勝的烘焙坊新鮮香氣。口感勁道十足,架構紮實,有夏多內所帶來的礦物緊緻度,以及相當多燉煮水果和蜜餞的風味,同時維持高雅特性。非常可口。17/20分)

Cuvee Stanislas年份香檳2005
品種資訊:100%夏多內(白中白香檳)
其它資訊:葡萄100%來自白丘(Cote des Blancs);殘糖量每公升9克;瓶中二次發酵6年
品飲筆記:展現出些許成熟風味,帶有一絲茴香與茉莉花茶等花香,以及燉蘋果、梨,和葡萄柚風味。口感展現出恰如其分的張力,很是怡人,質地細緻,餘韻綿長,物有所值。17.5+/20分) 

Cuvee Garance年份香檳2007
品種資訊:100%黑皮諾(黑中白香檳)
其它資訊:葡萄100%來自漢斯山脈(Montagne de Reims);殘糖量每公升10克;瓶中二次發酵7年
品飲筆記:這款年份香檳展現較多黃色水果香氣,以及些許濕羊毛和橘子皮氣息,另有一些吐司風味,餘韻綿長而令人印象深刻,同樣以葡萄柚香氣作結。17.5/20分)

Cuvee Alain Thienot年份香檳2002
品種資訊:60%黑皮諾、40%夏多內
其它資訊:殘糖量每公升9克;瓶中二次發酵10年
品飲筆記:怡人的成熟香氣中,帶有如蘑菇、果乾和乾燥花(幾乎有如乾燥百花香一般)等鹹鮮風味與成熟葡萄柚香。風味持久不散,豐富而滿覆口腔,在展現酒體份量之餘,也不乏優雅與細緻特性。非常精美的一款酒。18/20分)

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