Re-visiting Coravin

Is there anything more to say about Coravin, the wine preservation system that allows you to access the bottle without pulling the cork, that hasn’t already been said? Perhaps. I have already made clear in a previous post that Coravin helped make my journey through the MW programme considerably cheaper than it might otherwise have been, enabling me to access on multiple occasions wines that I considered necessary to compare and contrast with others.

My generally high level of contentment with the system does not mean that it is perfect. Beyond the obvious inability to access screwcaps, or plastic corks my other casual observations have centered on Coravin’s efficacy with agglomerated or technical corks like Diam. As these are not made from one piece of cork their elasticity appears somewhat compromised (meaning the hole made by the needle is less quick to close) and I have suspected that some wines I have re-visited have been ‘flatter’, the fruit a little more oxidised than expected.

On the 23rd of September the extremely personable inventor and owner, Greg Lambrecht was in Taipei and as part of his visit hosted a comparative tasting of three wines, a 2013 Fume Blanc from Mondavi, a 2010 Beaune 1er Cru from Domaine Champy and a 2010 Brunello di Montalcino from Castelgiocondo. What made this tasting different was that those assembled were given three wines of each, with one or two in each flight of three (we were not told) being wines that had been accessed three months earlier on the 21st of June. We were asked to identify the wine(s) in each flight that had been ‘Coravined’ or if we couldn’t tell the difference between the three to say as such on the recording slips that we had been given.

Lambrecht said that this was the largest tasting of this type yet undertaken by Coravin, as there were more than one hundred participants. The results were conclusive in that there was no consensus on any wine being significantly different from the others tasted. For me, the only wine where I really noticed any difference was with the Mondavi, the fruit aromas were just not as pronounced in the previously accessed example. Lambrecht asked, “Is there any wine here that you wouldn’t be happy to share with your guests/customers?”

“No” was the resounding response. A sentiment with which I fully concur.

Just before leaving I asked Lambrecht about my suspected ‘issue’ with technical corks and he recommended allowing both these and old corks a few extra seconds to close (approximately 30) on removal of the needle, to allow for the reduced elasticity, before returning the bottles to their horizontal position in one’s cellar or wine fridge.

 

再訪Coravin 

大家都知道,葡萄酒保存工具Coravin可以讓飲者在不取出瓶塞的情況下品嚐到瓶中酒。但關於Coravin,到底還有什麼是我們所不知道的呢?在過去的文章中,我已清楚地提到Coravin讓我能夠多次於不同時間點順利品飲同樣酒款,以比較和對照其它酒,進而大大地降低了我在準備葡萄酒大師(Master of Wine)考試時所需的費用。

雖然我對於目前的Coravin相當滿意,這卻不代表Coravin是完美無缺的。除了還無法使用於旋蓋或塑膠塞封瓶的葡萄酒款,Coravin使用於聚合軟木塞或Diam這類重組膠黏塞封瓶酒款的功效,也令我感到有些納悶。這是因為,這類軟木塞不是以一整片軟木製成,導致彈性較差,因此在Coravin細針插入木塞後,洞口會較慢癒合。除此之外,幾次重新品嚐過以Coravin取過的酒樣後,我也懷疑有些酒款的口感似乎較為「扁平」,或是在香氣上展現出較明顯的氧化果味。

9月23日這一天,魅力十足的Coravin發明家與專利擁有者Greg Lambrecht蒞臨台北,一同參與了進口商特別舉辦的一場「比較品飲會」。現場邀請來賓品嚐了Mondavi酒莊的2013年Fume Blanc白酒、Domaine Champy的2010年伯恩一級園紅酒( Beaune 1er Cru),以及Castelgiocondo酒莊的2010年蒙塔其諾布魯內洛紅酒(Brunello di Montalcino)。這場品酒會的特出之處,在於與會來賓眼前的三款酒,都分別各有三杯,總計九杯;而三杯同款酒中,各有一至二杯酒,是倒自今年6月21日時已被Coravin取過的樣酒。身為來賓的我們,則要試圖辨認出眼前那一些酒,是三個月前被取過的,或直接誠實地勾選出自己無法辨別這些酒款的不同。

由於這次參加的人士足足超過了100位,Lambrecht說,這是Coravin所辦過規模最大的「比較品飲會」。而結果非常明顯,從統計票數中可發現,全部九杯酒中,沒有任何一杯酒明顯地不同。對我而言,唯一一款我感覺得到稍有不同的,是Mondavi的Fume Blanc;那杯三個月前被Coravin取過的白酒,果味不如其它兩杯來得撲鼻。但當Lambrecht問道:「在場是否有任何一杯酒是你不願意與客人分享的?」上百位與會人士的回應相當一致:「沒有。」而我自己也百分百同意。

離開這場有趣的品飲會之前,我詢問了Lambrecht自己納悶已久的問題。他建議,若是以聚合類木塞與老木塞封瓶的酒款,待Coravin取出後,最好先讓酒瓶直立約末30秒不等的時間,讓彈性欠佳的木塞有時間緩慢癒合,再將酒評橫躺回酒櫃中。(編譯 / 艾蜜・emily)