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Touriga Nacional

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The Tasting Group

Enthusiasm breeds clubs. People who love scuba-diving want to spend time in the company of others who like being submerged. Whether it is bike-riding, reading comics, listening to music or tasting wine, we all like the freedom that being a ‘member’ brings. We are allowed space to talk about our favourite subject without apology and we are able to benefit from fellow members’ passion and predilections.

And so it is with Sniff’s tasting group. We have a core of six with the occasional special guest. Meeting every two weeks, the tastings are often theme based but sometimes the greatest pleasure is derived from the decision to simply bring something we feel like sharing.

Our last tasting fell into this category and highlighted in the space of six wines the complexity of style that the vinous world has to offer. None of these wines were inexpensive but none were outlandishly priced and when the cost is shared the pleasure greatly outweighs the pain. We had representation from six different countries, one red, two whites, a rosé, one fortified and a passito wine from Italy. Fundamentally they were all delicious, whilst providing plenty of material for conversation and conjecture about how and why the winemaker had chosen to influence the wine in a particular way.

So join a club. Your knowledge and tasting ability will grow exponentially and you’ll be with people you like. What more can you ask?

Below are the six wines from our most recent tasting with brief notes and details on where to buy:

Amon-Ra, Barossa Valley, Unfiltered Shiraz, 2005, 14.5%
Wine-making: 100 year old vines, 100% new, of which 80% is French and 20% American. Both barriques, and hogsheads (225 and 300 litre capacity respectively) used.
Note: Smoky, tar-like, spicy and with a lick of licorice this is an extremely dense, concentrated, full-bodied wine that retains a certain finesse. Nearly ten years old but will continue to develop for another ten years. Sense assaulting.
Price: 3,950NTD (for the 2012)
Score: 17.5/20
Available from (Taiwan): Chateau Wine & Spirits

Graham’s Six Grapes Reserve Ruby Port, NV, 20%
Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca
Wine-making: Fortified, and only a year or two in old wood to preserve the intense fruit style
Note: Excellent quality and value Reserve Ruby. Spicy, peppery dark fruit with some of the thrust and muscularity of Vintage Port without the price tag. Pair with something salty.
Price: 1,550NTD
Score: 16.5/20
Available from (Taiwan): Finesse

Château Simone, Rosé, Palette A.O.C., Provence, 2011, 14%
Primarily Grenache, Mourvedre and Cinsault
Wine-making: Old oak casks
Note: Pale ruby colour alerts one immediately to the fact this is no ordinary Provencal rosé. Not very aromatic with just a little red cherry on the nose but this gives way to an engaging full-bodied wine with a rich, cherry and herb fruit core. Not just for Summer and structured enough for food. I would like this with shrimp dumplings.
Price: 1690NTD
Score: 16.5/20
Available from (Taiwan): New Century Wine & Spirits

Vina Tondonia, Reserva Rioja Blanco, 1998, 12.5%
90% Viura, 10% Malvasia
Wine-making: 6 years in barrel affording the wine significant complexity.
Note: I love traditional white Riojas and this has plenty of deliciousness wrapped within its mildly oxidative body. Peach, green pineapple, flowers and a stave or two of oak make this an alluring glass. If you never usually drink white wine you might want to practice on easier, more overtly fruity examples before graduating onto this more ‘challenging’ style. Perfect with an oyster omelette.
Price: 1800NTD
Score: 17/20
Available from (Taiwan): Vinaria Wine Cellar

Markus Molitor, Wehlener Klosterberg, Pinot Blanc, Mosel, 2012, 13%
Pinot Blanc
Wine-making: Aged in an Islay single malt cask
Note: Remarkable nose with a dominant seaweed, iodine tang that is briny and very Scottish in origin. Yet this is not just a vinous oddity. There is lovely palate weight, bright acid and fruit purity that is as expected from the region. If you like a tot of Ardbeg then buy a bottle of this.
Price: 1600NTD
Score: 17/20
Available from (Taiwan): WineTeen

Montalpruno Vin Santo del Chianti D.O.C., 2006, 15.5%
Trebbiano & Malvasia
Wine-making: Made using semi-dried grapes
Note: Very fresh tasting Vin Santo that is dominated by the aroma of roasting pistachios. Sweet but with balancing acidity and persistent. Delicious with cheese, nuts or cake.
Price: 2,400NTD for 500ml
Score: 17/20
Available from (Taiwan):

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A Beginning and an End

Date: 28th August 2014
Place: Sherwood Hotel
, Minsheng East Rd, Section 3, Taipei.
Event: Finesse Wines: Taittinger & Graham’s Port

The drinking of Champagne and Port is usually separated by a few hours, one served as an aperitif and one as a post prandial accompaniment to a fat Cohiba. Yet the drinking of Port and particularly aged Tawny Ports and Colheitas (vintage tawnies), is arguably most suitably consumed when served lightly chilled before dinner.

On working my way through Graham’s 10, 20, 30, 40 year old tawnies and the 1982 Colheita, the dominant features were not those of richness, spice and power (although they had these qualities in abundance) but elegance and freshness. These elements were most obvious in the 20 and 30 year old. The difference between the 10 and the 20 year old in their respective complexity and style is considerable. During the slow, oxidative ageing process in barrel, the red berry and cherry fruit that haunt the 10 year old, fade to be replaced by orange and citrus peel, burnt sugar and a pleasant woodiness. Crucially the spirit that is used to fortify Port is completely integrated in the 20 year old providing the drinker with a palate bereft of the fieriness that flickers in the heart of younger bottlings.

And yet there is always a place for Champagne.

The house style of Taittinger which promotes delicacy and finesse over overt yeasty/autolytic/winey styles (i.e. Bollinger, Vilmart et Cie, Charles Heidsieck) is perfect for sub-tropical sipping. It all really depends on the occasion. At home, before a meal (I don’t mean breakfast), tawny port is perfect. It can be kept in the fridge, almost indefinitely, without fading in flavour or aroma and is thus very convenient as well as being delicious. With a few extra guests you may want the added drama of bubbles. Whatever you choose these wines are for the beginning not the end of an evening’s entertainment.

Brut Reserve NV
Chardonnay 40%, Pinot’s Noir 35% & Meunier 25%
Wine-making: Full malolactic conversion (MLC), 3 years plus on lees, 9g/l dosage
Note: Delicate, autolytic nose, touch of tarte tatin, vanilla, floral, precise. Bright acidity, persistent mousse. Very good and great value.
Price: 2700NTD
Score: 16.5/20

Brut Prestige Rose NV
Chardonnay 30%, Pinot Noir 45%, Pinot Meunier 25%
Wine-making: Made by ‘L’Addition’ method whereby still red wine is added to still white wine at the beginning of the winemaking process. Full MLC, 10g/l dosage, 3 years on lees.
Note: Beautiful salmon colour, spicy almost peppery red currant fruit, raspberry, blackcurrant leaf, less obvious autolysis than the regular brut.
Price: 3200NTD
Score: 16/20

Nocturne Sec NV
Chardonnay 40%, Pinot’s Noir 35% & Meunier 25%
Wine-making: Full MLC, 3 years plus on lees, 18g/l dosage
Note: Very fine mousse. Lovely lemon sherbert nose, touch of green apple, licorice and delicate autolytic character. Extremely (dangerously) easy to drink. The extra dosage leads to a less subtle character but mutes/balances the acidity well. Retains the signature Taittinger elegance.
Price: 3000NTD
Score: 15.5/20

Prelude Grand Crus Brut NV
Chardonnay 50%, Pinot Noir 50%,
Wine-making: Full MLC, more than 5 years on lees, 10g/l dosage.
Note: More restrained than the brut reserve on the nose, more structured on the palate, with a seam of minerality, citrus and physalis (very Chardonnay), fine mousse, persistent
Price: 3300NTD

Comtes de Champagne Rose Brut 2003
Chardonnay & Pinot Noir, 18000NTD
Wine-making: Full MLC, 6 years plus on lees. Made by ‘L’Addition’ method.
Note: Salmon orange colour. Smells mature, touch of mushroom and meat glaze, some umami character that you either like or don’t like. Retains some red berry fruit and persistence of flavour alongside inevitably a more delicate mousse (due to the age) than the other wines here.
Price: 18000NTD

Graham’s Tawny Ports:

General winemaking notes: Port is a fortified wine meaning that it has had neutral grape spirit added early in the wine’s fermentation, after approximately 36 hours. This stops the fermentation thus preserving a large proportion of the grape’s naturally occurring sugars. All of the Ports listed have a residual sugar content between 100 and 110g/l. All the wines below are wood (cask) aged. Therefore they have been matured oxidatively resulting in lighter coloured Ports with a vastly different flavour and aroma spectrum to Ruby examples such as LBV or Vintage Ports. Apart from the Colheita, the age indication is an average age of the wines used in the blend.

10 yr old Tawny
Pale ruby/tawny, touch of penicillin character indicating age. Still a little spirity. Raisined, spiced cherry fruit coupled with tobacco, toasted walnuts, caramel, moderate acidity and soft tannins. Persistent.
Price: 2200NTD

20 yr old Tawny
Full tawny, much more orange in colour than the ten year old. More penicillin, no red cherry fruit here. Instead fresh wood, burnt sugar, dried orange peel, spicy and more unctuous mouthfeel. Once again the acidity provides a freshness and poise. Very persistent and seamless integration of wine and spirit. Excellent and good value.
Price: 4000NTD

30 yr old Tawny
Completely tawny/orange colour. Very concentrated and dense making the wine feel less sweet than the twenty year old. Woody, peppery, nutty, chocolaty, with citrus peel and some umami-like character. Full bodied, complex and with great persistence. Again Excellent.
Price: 6500NTD

40 yr old Tawny
Full tawny/orange colour. Nutty, burnt, woody, dense, rich and spicy. Lovely integration of the spirit and fine acidity that lends poise. This reminds me of some very old oloroso sherries i.e. massively concentrated and complex but perhaps less easily enjoyable than some of the younger examples.
Price: 10,000NTD
Score: 16.5/20

1982 Colheita
Full tawny/amber. Smells, unsurprisingly, like a cross between the 20 and 30 year old tawnies. Delicious, dense, rich, penicillin, nutty, woody, spicy and with an alluring Chinese smoked plum character. A wine for sipping.
Price: 16800NTD
Score: 17/20

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Making Wine Easy

Date: 5th of September 2014
Event: Official opening of Vinoza
Venue: Vinoza, 59, Lane 122, Section 4, Ren’ai Rd, Xinyi District, Taipei 110

The biggest challenge faced by those trying to develop a more active wine culture in countries like Taiwan is based on accessibility. If the price is too high then all but the aspirational and well heeled are excluded. If the price is too low then it forms just another part of the alcohol mix that is exchangeable with any other similarly priced booze. Knowledge, or the perceived lack of it is also a barrier to raising consumption. Consumers don’t want to enter into an in depth conversation over the relative merits of the Left Bank vs. Right Bank Bordeaux, they just want to know if they are likely to like the wine. Customers don’t come back if they are made to feel stupid.

Vinoza is a new wine shop/importer in Xinyi district, selling primarily mid-priced wines between 300 and 1500NTD. They offer free tastings every day (of up to five wines) and although all staff have basic wine qualifications, the emphasis is on the customer to find the wine they like. Having identified a particular preferred style for example ‘Sapphire’ for full-bodied red wines, wine novices can look on the shelves for bottles labelled with the same style key to help remove some of the guesswork. Wines can be consumed on as well as off premise and if you do decide to drink at the bar or at the big wooden table in the airy room at the back, plates of assorted tapas can be ordered for 200NTD.

Is Vinoza my kind of wine shop? Probably not, but that is because I want a greater choice. Yet this is exactly the type of wine-shop experience that Taipei needs. No pomposity, no unintelligible descriptions and no wine geek speak. This is relaxed and friendly with a selection that is both affordable and easy to navigate.

Below are three wines that are representative of what Vinoza’s shelves have to offer.

Lamberti Santepietre Chardonnay 2013, IGT Delle Venezia 2013, 12.5%,
Wine-making: Stainless Steel
Note: Simple, citrus with some vanilla and spice character. Good palate weight, easy drinking and affordable.
Vinoza style: Topaz
Price: 599NTD
Score: 14/20

Melini Chianti Riserva DOCG 2010, 13%
Predominantly Sangiovese
Wine-making: Old Slavonian oak vats
Note: Restrained nose, sour cherry. Very typical. Powdery tannins, a touch of spice, bright acid and slight astringency to the finish…it’s Chianti.
Vinoza style: Ruby
Price: 799NTD
Score: 14.5/20

Plansel Selecta by Doria Lindemann, Touriga Nacional, Alentejo, 15.5% only 6,000 bottles produced
Touriga Nacional
Wine-making: 18 months in new French Oak barrels
Note: Intense, damson (sour plum), sloe and citrus peel nose, huge concentration, grippy but ripe tannins with well integrated oak and no alcohol burn. Full bodied and persistent.
Vinoza style: Sapphire
Price: 1499NTD
Score: 16/20

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