On Monday whilst sipping on some salty, nectarine, herb and lemon peel scented white made from that superior Sicilian, Carricante; the bias exhibited by many Taiwanese consumers towards red wine appeared increasingly nonsensical. Whilst I am glad that the wine market here in this corner of East Asia continues to grow, the rise in the consumption of white wine remains painfully slow. Why is it that in a country with a culinary history heavily influenced by the ocean’s proximity, are so many still marooned in a world where the vinous view does not extend to the joys afforded by great white wine?
People talk about the colour red as being lucky but the success of spirits such as the distinctly ‘brown’ Whisky in this market does not suggest that colour is a dominant factor. Red wine is also believed by some to be more beneficial to health, even if this is factually correct (and I’m not saying it is), I don’t think that those consuming the classed growths of Bordeaux or the Pinots of Burgundy are doing so to limit their visits to the doctor. As we all know, history, or the version of history that most of us are exposed to, is written by the successful, the ones able to impose their will on others, the ones who manage to beat the opposition. The scale of the marketing machine that makes Bordeaux what it is ensures that it remains the first region to be explored by most emerging wine consuming markets. The 1855 classification created a relatively brief and convenient list of Chateaux whose main focus was the production of red wine. This has helped create the illusion that red wine must be the best, and of course it is apart from when it isn’t. Sometimes your mood and one’s food cries out for white, so why deny yourself? Increase your wine drinking pleasure by including some white wine in your life and the wine from Gulfi below is an excellent place from which to start.
Gulfi, Carjcanti, IGT Sicilia, 2011, 12.5%
Grape: Predominantly Carricante with a little Albanello
Winemaking: 60% aged in 500l oak barrels for ten months. Made from organic grapes
Note: Delightfully pure with a spine of mouth watering acidity that pretends to quench your thirst whilst demanding that you drink more. This is flavourful and herby with citrus peel pithiness to the finish. I’ll be ordering a case.
Available from: laroutewine.com